The skin of killed wild animals is the first clothing and footwear of a primitive man. And if the technology of leather manufacturing has stepped far ahead, the process of sewing clothes has remained practically the same. All the same, you must first cut the skin, and then sew it. Let's see what modern industry offers us instead of a piece of obsidian and a cactus needle. We will discuss tools for working with the skin.
Devices for marking up the skin
Prepared dressed skin must first be leveled. To do this, it should be stretched and smoothed on an even work surface, and then fixed on the edge. Mel can be dropped immediately. When it comes to expensive, and even more exotic skin, every millimeter counts. For this work, special pencils of two colors are produced. If you do not have one, you can use a marker, a felt-tip pen or a simple pen. Remember that the skin is a waste-free material. Even the smallest scraps can come in handy, so it's easier to draw using templates and patterns. You can no
How to cut the material
Cutting the canvas is most correct to start with straight lines, until the skin is fixed, and then, detaching it, cut along the bends and broken lines. For this you need a knife and scissors. With a knife is easier, you can use shoemaker, wallpaper, stationery or a scalpel. The main thing is that they are sharp. But scissors need a whole set:
- large tailors - for cutting straight lines and cutting thick skin;
- of medium size - for rounding;
- manicure - cut out small details.
Available tools for working with a leather kit, which also includes scissors with a shaped profile of blades. They are used mainly in the manufacture of leather ornaments.
How to Sew the Skin
Let's consider two variants of tailoring leather products - manual or mechanical, using a household or industrial sewing machine. Enterprises professionally engaged in such activities have all the necessary equipment: powerful sewing machines with paws and wheels, needles with a two-sided, trihedral, four-sided cross section. We will consider what tools are needed to work with the skin at home.
The main problem arising when sewing leather on a household sewing machine, in addition to low power, is that the skin does not slide well under the foot. Hence the emergence of folds, distortions, thread breaks. Mistresses try to combat this problem in different ways. Someone puts a newspaper, someone smears the skin with soap, and someone pulls the edge of the skin with his hand, helping the sewing machine. But still it's easier not to regret thousands of rubles and go buy a special roller foot. Needles also have to use faceted, trying as far as possible to sew with the widest possible stitch, protecting the material from ruptures.
As for the manual sewing method, the tools for working with the skin need to be chosen depending on the type and thickness of the skin itself. Soft material, such as suede, husk, flask, can be sewed with a simple needle. Do not forget to use a thimble. So you not only facilitate the sewing process, but also protect your hands from injuries. For a denser skin( chrome, yuft, shagreen, chevrove) we use an awl. And of course, everyone saw how the master uses the shoe hook when repairing shoes.
You also need to pay special attention to the choice of threads, because not all of them are equally good for the skin. Synthetic and nylon, of course, cheaper, and even more beautiful. They shine, shimmer in the sun, but for tailoring leather products are not suitable. Durable artificial thread over time cuts through the skin, especially well seen on shoes. It is better to pay a little more expensive and buy flax yarns, at worst - cotton. If you want brilliance, then buy a silk cord.
Adhesives for bonding
The technology of gluing the skin is almost identical to the process of gluing rubber. Hence the choice of glue. True, more and more new compounds appear on the market every day, but this is not a problem, since it is very difficult to "skin" the skin. So, unlike rubber, you do not need to rub the skin with sandpaper, but you'll have to clean and degrease it. Then we put the glue, for a while, depending on the brand, let it dry, add a little more glue, press it and put it under the press. You can glue the skin in places with a tape, simple or bilateral, but this is a temporary solution to the problem, since such a seam can not endure a great deal of stress.
What tools for working with the skin are used, besides the above? There are many of them. In the first place, these are shaped piercers and patterned stamps. Punching and hammering, we pierce the skin, for example, under the rivets, or we make an openwork ornament. The brand is used for hot impressions. Also for these purposes, you can use an electric burner, but first advise you to get good at a separate piece of skin.
For manual sewing, a copy roller is used to mark the stitch length. Sometimes pliers and pliers will be useful. To produce the patterns, the whole set of drawing accessories will work. And in general, each person chooses tools for working with the skin with his own hands individually. Someone uses an iron, and someone takes a hair dryer from his wife. One likes to lay the glass while cutting the skin, the other puts the board. The main thing is that in the end you have succeeded.
What to choose?
Tools for working with the skin itself is not difficult at all. You can take, for example, a bicycle knife, sharpen it, attach some kind of handle - and the awl is ready. Or from any thin steel tube, having removed a facet and sharpened, make a round punch. And if it is heated and a square or triangular shape is made with a hammer, the punch will come out figuratively. Having shown a little imagination and diligence, you can, of course, build stamps and stamps from any piece of iron. But is it really necessary, because for small money in stores you can buy quality, specially made tools for working with the skin.
Attachments may be self-made or factory-made. What tools to work with the skin to choose, you decide. Differences, in principle, no, because it's not in themselves, but in the ability to use them and apply them correctly.